Well, I know I'm kinda late on this one. About a week ago I went to the Musei Capitoline. It is definitely the best museum I have been to... ever. In Rome, not everything is labeled in the museums(musei Vaticani) and they are often shabby. But whomever is running this one has it all figured out. I was the first one to arrive in the morning and it was slightly before the museum opened so I was chillin outside in Michelangelo's Campidoglio on the top of the Capitoline Hill... and I mean CHILLIN'. It was freezing out with the wind blowing on the top of the hill, it almost blew me over. Anyways I get inside and the first thing I see is the courtyard with the fragments of the colossal statue of Constantine!!! Now the thing about my departments (Art History and Greek and Roman Studies) is that we study so much but they dont tell you where it is located; I have been trying to find these pieces since I arrived in Rome. So it was exciting to stumble across them at an unexpected time. So I wandered around the museum seeing many wonderful things- this is known as the greatest collection of classical statuary. Even though I hadn't seen each specific statue, I was able to understand the imagery and in a couple cases the inspiration from an original.
There were a lot of statues of Pan and tonnes that were copies of the Athena Parthenos by Pheideis from the Parthenon- minus the gold though.
The buildings themselves are partially new and partially built of old aristocratic properties. In the basement there was a huge collection of well labeled epigraphic samples from the republic and empire. But more importantly... I could almost imagine men and women traipsing up and down the hallways conducting business and speaking their opinions of the emperor or senate. I imagined secret meetings and scandalous affairs. Then again, maybe I have just seen all the episodes of 'Rome' one too many times. Nonetheless, it was very cool and the lighting they installed helped the imagination.
Later I found my way upstairs into a few rooms FULL of busts of emperors, aristocrats, poets, rhetoricians and writers. Augustus, Livia, Homer and Socrates to name a few.
I ended up in a corner room called the "Room of the Gaul". I was ecstatic to walk in and find the "Dying Gaul" on which I have written a paper. I began taking a video as I walked around it- it needs to be experienced in the round- until the man yelled at me. Im not allowed videos but Im allowed flash photos??? I had never heard of this but anyways now I have about 250 degrees of the statue. After leaving the room I realize that the original is not here in Rome but must be in Berlin at the Pergamene Museum along with the altar of Zeus. Damn. Well, it looked real enough so Im still happy.
This may be the most confusing museum. Multiple levels going in multiple directions. Luckily it isnt that big so I think I did see everything. I wandered out onto a huge terrace that overlooked the majority of the Roman forum. It was a beautiful sunny day so I hung out there for a bit before descending back into the basement in order to go back up to the second floor. On this floor I found some hideous paintings that apparently were donated by some popes- no wonder they didn't want them. I also found a head of Medusa and the famous equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius which had its own amphitheatre for gods sakes. I checked out the Capitoline Wolf as well. There was also a gorgeous garden but it was closed.

A couple days later I wandered to the Circus Maximus and then to the Domus Aurea. The Domus Aurea was "closed for bad weather" though it was another gorgeous and sunny day... I wandered around the park that now sits on top of Nero's Golden House. There is a dog park there where I enjoyed watching all the dogs playing with eachother. It seems strange to think these dogs only understand Italian. Just a passing thought...
So I lounged in the sun soaking up the view of the Colisseum from the top of the hill.

Sunday was my birthday. Apparently in Italy you have cake for breakfast lunch and dinner on birthdays. It seemed like a great way to start the day!! Gioia made chocolate cake for breakfast... mmmmm. The kids came into my room with Gioia bearing gifts in the morning. I felt to touched that they bought me gifts. I got a scarf from Gioia and Stefano, and from Lucri, Ale and Fede I got a bag. Both are from Roxy because I suppose I told them it's a popular brand in Canada. How thoughtful. We spent a few hours at a market that occurs on the last Sunday of every month- mainly antiques and designer knockoffs. Its neat to walk around because there are no tourists, just locals.
We left there and went to the Milvian Bridge because Lucri wanted to show me the locks. Apparently people write the names of them and their significant other on a padlock, lock it to the bridge and then throw the keys in the Tiber river. There are now thousands of locks. I, however was much more interested in the historical value of the bridge, knowing it was the Battle of the Milvian Bridge when Constantine saw a sign from the Christian god which allowed him to win the battle. Shortly after in 313 he declared Christianity the official religion of the empire. The kids didnt seem to care.
The rest of my birthday was rather low-key. The guy at my favorite cafe gave me a hug and a free cappuccino!! I got myself a bottle of wine and came home. Thats that. Although being here for my birthday did make me miss home more. Only 2 weeks and 4 days until Mom and I meet in Paris!!!

This weekend I am heading to Florence and from there I am going to Cinque Terre, San Giminiano, Siena, and Volterra. So thats exciting. Im dreadfully sick I'm afraid so I must getter better before the weekend. And yes, I am drinking lots of fluids and yes I am getting lots of rest.
Ciao miei amici!! xox
love kate

Kim and Mae Come to Rome and The Vatican

WARNING: Very lengthy entry, proceed only with time to spare and feel free to read in parts.


So my friends Mae and Kim decided to take the trip from their schools in Toulouse and Lyon, respectively, and come on down to Rome to see the sights. Man, did they ever.
DAY 1
They arrived Thursday night and headed straight to the hostel to get a good nights sleep for an early wake-up to go to the Musei Vaticani. My guidebook so helpfully told me that it was best to be there by 6:30am because that’s when the line-up starts. Silly guidebook. We thought we were risking it by deciding to meet at the closest metro station at 7:00. Well I arrive at seven am and wait around thinking perhaps the girls got the wrong station, or I did? Apparently I have no luck with meeting up with people in Europe as I have discovered before. So at 7:30 I thought perhaps they had gone straight to the museum. So I follow the signs to the Vatican and not only are Kim and Mae not there, but nobody else is either. Silly guidebook. By the way it was a freezing 1 degree plus windchill on Friday. Not the greatest weather in which to be waiting around unnecessarily. The museum didn’t open until 8:30 anyways so I just sat and waited there. Eventually the girls find me at 8:00am. We must have just missed eachother; they arrived at the previously mentioned metro station at 7:30! Anyways, the only people that are waiting in line for the museum are tours anyways. Silly guidebook.
We eventually get inside and the first piece of art we see is the Laocoon which is one of my favorite Hellenistic sculptures and recently featured prominently in one of my better papers. Anyways, I assume this is not the original as it was stationed behind the coat check stand. But then I think that ‘hey this is the Vatican- one of the biggest and probably THE most valuable art collections in the world- I suppose they can afford to throw the famous statue behind the coat check. Nonetheless, it was fabulous. We found our way into a large courtyard and snapped some photos before heading into the Egyptian section.
Egyptian section= very cool. But I have to say, mummies don’t look at all like I thought! That kinda wierded me out- dead person lying behind just a sheet of glass. It was cool to see the ornamentation they buried them in though. However, the Egyptian section was only the beginning. I was excited for more classical statues.
Eventually we move into a recreation of Hadrian’s villa at Tivoli (just outside Rome and on my list of places to go this coming week- what a coinkidink!). It was tres beautiful but it made me wonder if they kept anything at Tivoli to look at!
By the way, signs to the Sistine Chapel begin at the entrance yet it is at the end. They REALLY want to build up the suspense.
So we moved on and the classical statues begin. So wonderful. Many of them were randoms, you know found here and there in people’s driveways over the years yet are infinitely valuable. They were all super stunning nonetheless. The girls were rather impressed that I knew of some of the things we were looking at and requested that my knowledge be shared. We wander down a long hallway lined with Classical and Hellenistic sculptures. I saw Tyche (fortune) of some town- the name of which escaped me- which is referenced in many of my classes. I also saw the Boy with Goose (love it!). The girls seemed to be getting restless to get to the Sistine Chapel- understandably considering the build-up- so we sped through the rest of the statues.
Next we arrived in the Raphael rooms. LOVED THEM. We saw the momentous Battle of the Milvian Bridge. This battle was important as it is said to be the time when Constantine converted from a pagan to a Christian due to the interference of God and angels in the battle causing his victory. I’d say it’s rather important imagery for the Vatican.
My favorite fresco is perhaps his most famous: School of Athens. Perspective is a very important part of the Renaissance and Raphael certainly mastered it in this piece in which famous philosophers such as Aristotle, Plato, Socrates, Alcibiades and Euclid wander about explaining and debating. And of course Raphael through himself in there too. In the same room was a fresco in which Apollo plays his lyre and the great minds of Homer, Sappho, Vergil and Dante mingle with the Muses. Also a beautiful fresco, one that I have never seen. Next was the modern religious art which first of all, I thought was ill-placed and second, I am not a fan of. Perhaps if I were religious this would be interesting?
FINALLY, the Sistine Chapel stands in front of us. It was definitely a sight to see but it did not have the influence I had anticipated. Perhaps if I were allowed to lie down and appreciate it the way it was meant to be seen; there were signs strictly forbidding it. I think they should MAKE everyone lie down. I mean, everyone is hurting their necks staring up at the ceiling… why not make it mandatory and have rows? Seeing it made me wonder why certain things became famous and not others. It was a must-see but I think the Classical and Hellenistic art really captivates me and gives me butterflies in my stomach. Who needs gorgeous Italian men when you can have a gorgeous statue of Apollo that can’t speak?
Moving on we headed to Piazza di San Pietro and the church to match. Mae and Kim were stunned by the triple colonnade, the fountains, the warmth, the church and the beauty of it all. It was a gorgeous day with not a cloud in the sky and I think it was the perfect day to be there.
After St. Peter’s we hopped on the metro and went to the Trevi fountain where we were perfectly content to sit in the sunshine and eat biscuits. Eventually our hunger caught up with us and we went for pizza. Delicious but still not as good as Gioia’s homemade pizza. We left and I showed the girls the way to H&M on Via del Corso before I headed home. We made a date to meet up and go partying but after a full day and waking up at 5:30am I was just too exhausted.
DAY 2
So the next day I woke up the girls at their hostel with a Roman favorite: castagnoli, which is a delicious bite size piece of heaven made of custard with a whale-tailesque outer covering which is then rolled in copious amounts of sugar. Despite having had only 2 hours of sleep (kids these days eh?) they jumped out of bed and after a quick trip to nearby Santa Maria Maggiore and caffe lattes with goodies they were rarin’ to go.
First stop: Colisseum and Arch of Constantine. I think they were thoroughly impressed and got a few photos before wandering up the hill and checking out the arch of Titus. Back down and around the corner, we walk down the Fori Imperiali right through the Roman forum. We stop to take a break and a few photos at the piccolo Chiesa di Sts Cosma e Damiano. We continue on to Piazza Venezia and the Monument for the Unknown Soldeir erected by Vittorio Emmanuele II. Beyond that we wander down Via del Corso before taking a left towards some food, the Pantheon and ultimately Piazza Navona. The Piazza del Pantheon was gorgeous in the beautiful sunshine and we hung out by the fountain before checking out the architectural wonder that is the roof of the Pantheon. After some cheap and delicious kebabs at the Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona we head over to Piazza dei Spagna and the Spanish Steps. The sun had disappeared behind some clouds but we chased it up the steps as it reappeared. I got some gelato while the girls trekked all the way to the top; tells you a little about the differences between me and them. Final stop: Piazza del Popolo with the identical churches.
While day 2 wasn’t as long, it was almost as tiring since these girls saw in one day what I saw in a week. We went our separate ways before meeting up for a romantic, girls-only, Valentines day dinner. We shared a litre of Italian red over pasta and pizza in a cute restaurant near Cavour station. So that’s the story of when Mae and Kim came to Rome! Thanks for reading, if in fact you made it to the end!!xoxo

A Couple of Byzantine Churches

Well, I keep getting impatient messages from people wondering when the next blog will be so here's a little update of what I did today:
It has been raining in Rome for several days although the rain here cannot be compared to our Vancouver rain because here it is merely a light drizzle. But nonetheless, if there are grey skies every Roman can be seen carrying an umbrella and the vendor guys seem to come out of nowhere carrying umbrellas of every colour and yelling "umbrella! Piove!" I wish I knew how to say "this is nothing, go to Vancouver where it REALLY rains!" So this morning I woke up intending to go out rain or shine so I put on my pretty pink MEC raincoat and head out at 8:30. I always forget to wait until at least 10 o'clock to take the metro- its insane at rushhour. So I arrive there at quarter to nine and elbow my way onto the train. If you think the #14 bus to UVic in the morning is bad- you ain't seen nothin yet! I am literally touching five people at once whom I'm pretty sure don't know I am there and are all leaning on me as if I am a wall... awesome. Luckily it was only three stops; well actually four but I just wanted to get the heck off the train so I got off one early and walked.
First stop: Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica. I got there right when it opened, how convenient! So as soon as I arrive at the back of the Basilica on Via Cavour the sun comes out as if God is saying "thank you Kate for coming to visit me at this fabulous church!" So my mood brightens and I head inside. Wowza!! This is the first church I have been to that actually looked like it's pictures!! It is huge too. This made me very happy as I was able to easily deconstruct the imagery of the arch in the apse! In fact the mosaic was one of my favorites from my "Early Christian Art" class. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a good picture- always the case in these old poorly lit Byzantine churches. The original mosaics run up the nave as well but its interesting because the mosaics are there and above them are large renaissance frescos. They don't match at all I have no idea why they would paint these frescos. It is hard to identify the imagery in the mosaics when standing on the ground because the church is so big! But I did recognize some of the mosaics from Dr. Jessop's class such as Moses crossing the Red Sea and the stories of Abraham and Melchisedec. So I wandered around there for a bit and listened to the priests singing in one of the side chapels. Beautiful voices I wonder if that is a requirement to work in the field of God. "Are you a talented singer? No? Then move along, perhaps you were cut out for plumbing?"
So I leave the church and head down Via Cavour, on the way stopping for a cappuccino and cornetto. So I wander right on down to the Fori Imperiali- the road between Piazza Venezia and il Colosseo which runs right smack dab in the middle of the Foro Romano. I think about going in to check out the Forum of Caesar but I decide that is for another day. As I wander to the "colosseo" metro station I pass by a small church which I have never really taken notice of. I looked up at the sign and realize it is another church I have studied, albeit briefly, in my early Christian art class. This is the Basilica of Saints Cosmas and Damien!

This church used to be a Roman Senate House but was converted in the 6th Century (when Rome became an official part of the Byzantine Empire). It's very small compared to the other Basilicas in Rome. I walked through a small doorway and entered into a beautiful courtyard. I followed the signs to the basilica and I went in to find a group of english speaking painters. The were speaking with a priest who spoke perfect english as well. They appeared to be restoring the confession booths. I didn't want to disturb them to ask what they were doing. So I moved onto the apse which I could also easily identify; I suppose these Byzantine mosaics often have the same symbolic references. It was quite beautiful though.
I left the church feeling happy that I had gotten to see it. My knee has been bothering me so I walked the short distance to the metro and headed home. I had planned to go to the Domus Aurea but perhaps that will be for tomorrow. I think I will reread my paper on it so I am reminded of a few things.
On Friday a couple of my friends are coming from France to see Rome! I am excited! In the morning we are going to wake up early to be at the Vatican Museum by 6:30 so we dont have to wait in line. I am very excited to have people to go with since it's such a long experience like the Louvre! Woot Sistine Chapel!!
So that's all for now.
Oh, I dont know if this will work but you can follow this link to see some of my photos: http://www.new.facebook.com/home.php?ref=home#/album.php?aid=2113054&id=122503301
Ciao Miei Amici!!
Lots of Love, Kate

Tre Settimane

Well, this blog isn't about anything in particular but merely to mark my three weeks spent in Rome. I can't believe it has been three weeks. Things are fabulous. Sometimes I forget I'm in Italy and then I remember and get really excited. I can't help but think I should be doing more with my days here but then I gently remind myself that I came here not only to see the sights but also to experience the Italian life. I think I am doing a great job if I do say so myself! Stefano and Gioia think so too. Also, I recently got my results back from a blood test I took right before I left and turns out my hyperthyroid is not going away as I had previously thought. This explains why I am exhausted after 4 hours of sightseeing and wandering. I realized that the sights are truly exquisite and are everything I wanted them to be but the city is equally as wonderful. I could live here if it weren't for being away from family and friends. The city is easy to navigate (as long as you live near the metro) and its nice to just wander.
The other day I went looking for an English book store as I finished my book (lasted a long time I must say). So I arrived at "The Lion bookshop" and it was strange to speak English easily. I find I dumb down my English for the family so to speak using big words was just lovely. The owner is from the UK and was a big help. By the way I should say how much I love the fact that it is called a "bookshop"- it seemed so British. Though the store has expanded to take up three storefronts (not a lot by Canadian standards but big for Rome) they did not have either of the books I was looking for. I browsed through the young adult section though and saw some fictional books that are- as far as I can tell- about a group of friends in ancient Roman times. I will go back and check them out further as the series would be wonderful to have (and I'm not going to lie, I love young adult books).
So I left there and just wandered. I was walking down Via del Corso which is quickly becoming one of my favorite streets. It has a couple stores we have in Canada like Lush and H&M but I like it because it runs directly from Piazza del Popolo to Piazza Venezia which are two very important piazzas let me tell you. But I love it here. I feel like I fit here. And yes, I know I don't speak the language and yes I know I don't know anywhere except Piazza Bologna and Il Centro. But I fit.
The cafe that I go to every day makes me happy because the guys that work there know me now and always greet my entrance with a smile and a "Ciao bella, uno cappuccino?" It's the closest thing to Starbucks I have over here and I am grateful for it.
So my mom suggested the twins class write letters to her class in Canada; they have already started and are very excited. I went to iron out the details with their English teacher on Thursday.
I am very excited because I am planning a trip to Florence with an old friend that I haven't seen in years who is working as an au pair in Sweden. We are going for the first week of March and I am super excited. It has worked out nicely because my family is going on a skiing trip during this time. So Heather and I are going to Florence and hopefully we can see some of the Tuscan countryside. I have visions of drinking wine at dusk with a beautiful view- hopefully this is attainable. I have also been told to have a fragola (strawberry) and limone gelato on the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) by a certain someone who lived in Florence for a couple years going to art school. How romantic!
After that trip I will return to Rome for about a week and then off to Paris (!!!) where my mother will meet me!!! I am very excited. We will spend some quality time together in Paris and environs during her spring break. How decadent!!
So that about sums it up. Rome is wonderful. I will remember this trip forever.
Ciao miei amici!! Lots of love and miss you all.
Kate