A Couple of Byzantine Churches

Well, I keep getting impatient messages from people wondering when the next blog will be so here's a little update of what I did today:
It has been raining in Rome for several days although the rain here cannot be compared to our Vancouver rain because here it is merely a light drizzle. But nonetheless, if there are grey skies every Roman can be seen carrying an umbrella and the vendor guys seem to come out of nowhere carrying umbrellas of every colour and yelling "umbrella! Piove!" I wish I knew how to say "this is nothing, go to Vancouver where it REALLY rains!" So this morning I woke up intending to go out rain or shine so I put on my pretty pink MEC raincoat and head out at 8:30. I always forget to wait until at least 10 o'clock to take the metro- its insane at rushhour. So I arrive there at quarter to nine and elbow my way onto the train. If you think the #14 bus to UVic in the morning is bad- you ain't seen nothin yet! I am literally touching five people at once whom I'm pretty sure don't know I am there and are all leaning on me as if I am a wall... awesome. Luckily it was only three stops; well actually four but I just wanted to get the heck off the train so I got off one early and walked.
First stop: Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica. I got there right when it opened, how convenient! So as soon as I arrive at the back of the Basilica on Via Cavour the sun comes out as if God is saying "thank you Kate for coming to visit me at this fabulous church!" So my mood brightens and I head inside. Wowza!! This is the first church I have been to that actually looked like it's pictures!! It is huge too. This made me very happy as I was able to easily deconstruct the imagery of the arch in the apse! In fact the mosaic was one of my favorites from my "Early Christian Art" class. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a good picture- always the case in these old poorly lit Byzantine churches. The original mosaics run up the nave as well but its interesting because the mosaics are there and above them are large renaissance frescos. They don't match at all I have no idea why they would paint these frescos. It is hard to identify the imagery in the mosaics when standing on the ground because the church is so big! But I did recognize some of the mosaics from Dr. Jessop's class such as Moses crossing the Red Sea and the stories of Abraham and Melchisedec. So I wandered around there for a bit and listened to the priests singing in one of the side chapels. Beautiful voices I wonder if that is a requirement to work in the field of God. "Are you a talented singer? No? Then move along, perhaps you were cut out for plumbing?"
So I leave the church and head down Via Cavour, on the way stopping for a cappuccino and cornetto. So I wander right on down to the Fori Imperiali- the road between Piazza Venezia and il Colosseo which runs right smack dab in the middle of the Foro Romano. I think about going in to check out the Forum of Caesar but I decide that is for another day. As I wander to the "colosseo" metro station I pass by a small church which I have never really taken notice of. I looked up at the sign and realize it is another church I have studied, albeit briefly, in my early Christian art class. This is the Basilica of Saints Cosmas and Damien!

This church used to be a Roman Senate House but was converted in the 6th Century (when Rome became an official part of the Byzantine Empire). It's very small compared to the other Basilicas in Rome. I walked through a small doorway and entered into a beautiful courtyard. I followed the signs to the basilica and I went in to find a group of english speaking painters. The were speaking with a priest who spoke perfect english as well. They appeared to be restoring the confession booths. I didn't want to disturb them to ask what they were doing. So I moved onto the apse which I could also easily identify; I suppose these Byzantine mosaics often have the same symbolic references. It was quite beautiful though.
I left the church feeling happy that I had gotten to see it. My knee has been bothering me so I walked the short distance to the metro and headed home. I had planned to go to the Domus Aurea but perhaps that will be for tomorrow. I think I will reread my paper on it so I am reminded of a few things.
On Friday a couple of my friends are coming from France to see Rome! I am excited! In the morning we are going to wake up early to be at the Vatican Museum by 6:30 so we dont have to wait in line. I am very excited to have people to go with since it's such a long experience like the Louvre! Woot Sistine Chapel!!
So that's all for now.
Oh, I dont know if this will work but you can follow this link to see some of my photos: http://www.new.facebook.com/home.php?ref=home#/album.php?aid=2113054&id=122503301
Ciao Miei Amici!!
Lots of Love, Kate